Finance

Auto Loan Calculator

Calculate your monthly car payment with trade-in, sales tax, and fees. See the true financed amount, total interest, and lifetime cost of your vehicle loan.

Last updated: · Reviewed by ProCalcVerse Finance Team
Monthly Payment
Amount Financed
Total Interest
Total Vehicle Cost
Sales Tax Paid
Amount financed = (Price + Tax + Fees) − Down − Trade-In + Trade-In Loan Owed
Monthly payment = P × r(1 + r)n ÷ ((1 + r)n − 1)
Field-tested guidance from this page
  • The amount financed — not the sticker — drives your payment. Down payment, trade equity, taxes, and dealer fees all reshape it.
  • Six U.S. states (CA, HI, MD, MI partial, MT, VA) deny the trade-in tax credit. In the other 44, trading in is a quiet tax break worth hundreds.
  • A $2,750 manufacturer rebate financed at 6.75% typically beats a "0% APR for 60 months" offer for loan balances over $20,000.
  • Stretching a $32,000 financed amount from 60 to 84 months drops the payment ~$120/month but adds roughly $3,750 in interest and keeps you underwater 18 months longer.

Why your real payment differs from the showroom quote

The number on the showroom whiteboard is almost always lower than what you'll actually pay. Three reasons: the quote rarely includes the dealer's documentation fee, it usually assumes you finance through their captive lender (with a marked-up rate), and it relies on a "spot" payment estimate that ignores the F&I office add-ons coming next. This calculator forces all of those numbers into the open before you sign anything.

How the amount financed is built

Every U.S. auto loan starts with the same equation:

Amount Financed = Negotiated Price + Sales Tax + Title/Reg Fees − Down Payment − Trade-In Equity

Trade-In Equity is the dealer's appraisal of your old vehicle minus any payoff balance on the existing loan. If you owe more than the trade is worth — common in years 1 to 3 of a long auto loan — the negative equity is added to the new loan, immediately putting you underwater on day one of the new contract.

The financed amount then runs through the standard installment-loan formula:

M = P × r(1 + r)n ÷ ((1 + r)n − 1)

Walkthrough: 2026 Toyota RAV4 XLE in Texas

  • Negotiated price: $34,800
  • Down payment: $4,000
  • Trade-in allowance (2019 Civic, no loan owed): $11,200
  • Texas state + local sales tax 6.25% on price net of trade ($23,600): $1,475
  • Title + registration + inspection: $258
  • Amount financed: $34,800 + $1,475 + $258 − $4,000 − $11,200 = $21,333
  • APR 6.75% for 60 months → monthly payment ≈ $419.36
  • Total of 60 payments: $25,162
  • Total interest paid: $3,829

Same buyer in California — which taxes the full $34,800 — would owe sales tax of about $3,037 instead of $1,475, increasing the financed amount by $1,562 and the monthly payment by about $31. State of registration alone can reshape this calculation by several thousand dollars over the life of the loan.

State-by-state sales-tax treatment of trade-ins

In most U.S. states, vehicle sales tax is applied only to the negotiated price minus the trade-in allowance — effectively turning your trade into a tax credit. Six states are exceptions:

  • California — tax full price (current statewide rate 7.25% plus local; effective 7.25% to 10.75%)
  • Hawaii — tax full price (general excise tax, ~4.0%–4.5%)
  • Maryland — tax full price (titling tax 6%)
  • Michigan — partial trade-in credit only, capped each year (cap was $11,000 in 2024 and rises annually)
  • Montana — no general sales tax statewide, but specific county or "luxury" fees may apply
  • Virginia — tax full price (motor vehicle sales and use tax 4.15%)

In the calculator above, the "Tax Trade-In?" dropdown switches the math. Verify your state's current treatment with your DMV — rules change.

The F&I office: where most of the dealer's profit hides

After you've agreed on price, you're handed to the Finance & Insurance (F&I) manager. This is the most profitable 20 minutes in the dealership, and they have a menu of add-ons ready: extended warranty, GAP insurance, paint/fabric protection, tire-and-wheel protection, dealer-arranged maintenance plans, and sometimes a "VIN etching" theft deterrent. Margins on these products are typically 50% to 200%. Treat the F&I office like a separate negotiation — politely decline anything that wasn't on your pre-approved bank's letter, and walk out if pressure escalates.

Crucially, dealers can mark up your APR by 1 to 2 percentage points above the lender's actual buy rate as a profit center (the "dealer reserve"). The fix: get pre-approved by a credit union or online lender before you visit the dealership. Bring a printed approval letter. Let the dealer try to beat it — if they can't, you use your pre-approval. If they can, you've still won.

36 vs 48 vs 60 vs 72 vs 84 months — what the difference really costs

Lenders aggressively market longer terms because the monthly payment looks affordable. The catch is a higher APR, dramatically more total interest, and a longer underwater period. Here's the comparison on a $21,333 financed amount:

TermTypical APRMonthlyTotal interestYears underwater*
36 mo6.40%$652$2,144~0.5 yr
48 mo6.55%$507$3,015~1.2 yrs
60 mo6.75%$419$3,829~2.0 yrs
72 mo7.25%$365$4,933~3.1 yrs
84 mo7.99%$332$6,544~4.0 yrs

*Underwater = loan balance exceeds current vehicle value. Estimates assume 15% first-year depreciation and 10% per year thereafter.

Is GAP insurance worth buying?

GAP (Guaranteed Asset Protection) covers the difference between what your collision insurer pays out on a totaled car and what you still owe on the loan. Three rules of thumb:

  • Yes, buy GAP if you financed more than 80% of the vehicle value, took a term over 60 months, or rolled negative equity from a previous loan into this one.
  • Skip dealer GAP if possible. Dealer-sold GAP is typically $500 to $895 lump-sum (often financed and accruing interest), versus $20 to $50 per year if added to your auto insurance policy.
  • Cancel GAP early once your loan-to-value drops below 80% — most GAP policies are pro-rata refundable.

When refinancing an auto loan makes sense

Auto refinancing has lower friction than mortgage refi — typically no appraisal, no origination fee at most credit unions, and approval in 1 to 3 business days. The sweet spot is 12 to 18 months after origination if any of these are true:

  • Your FICO has risen 50 or more points since you signed
  • Market rates have dropped at least 1 percentage point
  • You financed at the dealer above the bank buy rate and never shopped around
  • You took an 84-month term and want to shorten without changing the monthly payment much

A quick lease-vs-buy lens

Leasing usually wins on monthly payment, loses on total cost over 8-plus years of ownership. The break-even depends on your annual mileage, expected resale value, and whether you'll keep the vehicle past the loan term. Generally:

  • Lease if you drive under 12,000 miles a year, replace cars every 2-3 years, and want predictable maintenance.
  • Buy and hold if you drive over 15,000 miles a year, keep cars 6+ years, or want to build equity in a depreciating asset (yes, it's still depreciating).
  • Buy and trade short is usually the worst path — you carry the brunt of depreciation but never reach the low-cost ownership years.

Frequently asked questions

How accurate is this auto loan calculator?

It uses the exact installment-loan formula required under the Truth in Lending Act and the same tax and trade-in handling your dealer's F&I system uses. The only inputs you can't perfectly predict in advance are your final negotiated price, your dealer's documentation fee, and whether the F&I office adds extras you decline.

How much should I put down on a new car?

The 20/4/10 rule says 20% down on new and 10% on used. The real reason is depreciation: new vehicles lose 15% to 20% in the first year and 50% to 60% by year five. A larger down payment keeps you above water faster.

Do I have to roll negative equity into my new loan?

No, but most buyers do because it's the only way to escape an underwater trade without paying out of pocket. Better option: keep driving the old vehicle until equity is positive, or pay the gap in cash at signing.

Is a credit union really cheaper than a bank?

Almost always, yes. Credit unions averaged about 0.6 to 1.0 percentage points lower than retail banks on auto loans in 2025 Federal Reserve data. Online lenders (Lightstream, Capital One Auto, Autopay) often beat both.

What's the "rebate vs 0% APR" break-even?

Use this calculator twice: once with the rebated price and your bank's APR, once with the full price and 0% APR. Whichever produces a lower total of payments (including rebate) wins. Sub-$20,000 financed amounts usually favor 0% APR; larger amounts usually favor the rebate.

Are car loan interest payments tax-deductible?

Personal-use auto loan interest is not deductible. Business-use vehicles can deduct a portion of interest in proportion to business mileage on Schedule C or Form 2106.

Should I finance through the manufacturer's captive lender?

Only if they're offering subvented (subsidized) rates — typically 0% to 2.9% APR promos. Their standard rates without a subvention are usually no better than a credit union's offer.

What documents do I need when I arrive at the dealership?

Driver's license, proof of insurance, your pre-approval letter from a bank or credit union, and (if trading in) your current vehicle's title or payoff information from your existing lender.

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Sources & further reading

Editorial note: This calculator and content are for educational use only and do not constitute legal, tax, or financial advice. Always confirm your specific state's tax treatment with the DMV and review the final dealer contract line by line before signing. Last reviewed by Marcus Tan, CPA, on February 22, 2026.